Reader Question : Who Develops Our Formulations?

10 Mar

“I absolutely love your blog. I get so much information from reading it! I’m trying to look into creating my own cosmetics line and boy is it a lot of work. I noticed in one of your posts you talked about how you should connect with a cosmetic chemist to get things going. Do you have an advice on how to find a cosmetic chemist to work with? I’m just wondering how to start without using a private label and simply re-packing their products and calling them my own. I’m not a chemist myself but I still want products that will be my own on a limited budget. Any advice?”

After my last few posts on developing our formulations in a lab, I’ve been receiving lots of emails asking for advice on who best to develop customized formulations with, and in smaller, more practical quantities. The above email sums up your sentiments very well : Private label companies may be able to provide you with choice and the ability to start a range on a tighter budget, but there is just something not quite right about repacking someone else’s formula (a formula that hundreds of other companies are using) and calling it your own.

If that echoes what you feel, then here’s an alternative which I hope will help. We work with 4-5 different contract manufacturers at any given time, some very large (from whom we order in volumes to capitalize on their huge formulation choices & lower prices), some who specialize in amazing powders or emulsions (because I really am quite anal about the product I put on my own skin, and I road-test every single colour and SKU on myself), some with proprietary ingredients or formulations, who do in-house clinical tests, and ONE which I call an “artisanal” laboratory with an amazingly gifted founder and chemist. Her name is Larisa Rossi and she started her own manufacturing facility in Bergamo, Italy (where her parents are from), with her own office & warehouse in the UK. I met her quite by accident last year when she was looking for an office space in the same block as where Jelly Pong Pong‘s offices were, and it was simply a dream come true for me. We could finally develop strong, proprietary formulations in small batches in order to test the market and gauge consumer response.

There is a caveat however. You need to be aware that customized formulations require some investment, you probably would not be able to do anything without a minimum investment of GBP 2000 – GBP 3000 per formulation in perhaps 2-3 different shades (unlike taking a starter pack from a private label company, where you may end up spending less than GBP 500 in total for a whole host of products). If this is something you’re willing to take up, you can continue reading for an indication of Larisa’s prices and quantities (I’m only quoting it from previous dealings with her in order to give you an indication, so please bear in mind that this may change drastically depending on what you develop).

Powders pressed in a pan (this includes eye shadows, blushers, bronzers, illuminizers, etc…) : 1000 pcs /shade @ GBP 0.70 each

Hot pour emulsions in a pan (pan concealers, lip/cheek stains, lip balms, cream blushers, etc…) : 1000 pcs / shade @ GBP 0.80 each

Liquid emulsions (liquid foundations, concealers, luminizers, anything in a cream format) : 15 kgs/ shade @ GBP 60/kg

As you can see, the quantities are below industry average (which are 3 to 4 times more), prices per piece (or per kg) are a little higher but achievable if you are determined to have something fully customized and completely yours.

You need to be aware that like many contract manufacturers based in Europe (other than really large ones who have specialty packaging departments to offer full, turnkey services), Larisa only offers formulations and not primary or secondary packaging. I believe I have spoken at length about primary and more particularly secondary packaging providers. If you have the means to order bulk formulations, make time and hand-pour them into your own bottles or jars right in your kitchen sink to keep your overall budget to a minimum.

So drum roll please, here comes Larisa’s email!

Larisa Rossi : larisarossi2@gmail.com

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5 Responses to “Reader Question : Who Develops Our Formulations?”

  1. Terra Labs, LLC (@TerraLabs) September 7, 2013 at 2:16 pm #

    Some Advice for Those Looking for Formulation Services in US (Miami). Terra Labs, LLC is a Formulations and Contract Manufacturing Company specialized in Cosmetics, Beverages and Nutritional. They work with associated companies as well to achieve your goals. Here is their website http://www.terralabs.us

  2. akashh gupta June 4, 2015 at 11:34 am #

    Dear sir,
    My name is Akashh gupta, we have 1400 sqft space with license to manufacture cosmetics (drug license) we r looking forward to give lone license Or any other business proposal as ur requirement. Call A.gupta 9674633250
    Kolkata. (INDIA )

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